Bean's Blanket

My sister-in-law is pregnant with her first child, a boy (currently nicknamed "Bean"), so I decided to crochet a baby blanket for him. I chose a wide variety of bright colors, and though I used a rainbow sequence, you'll see that I didn't rigidly stick to a color pattern.
The crochet pattern is very easy, and works well for a baby blanket because it doesn't have lots of gaps for teeny weeny baby toes to get caught in.


Crochet Pattern for Bean's Baby Blanket:

Chain an uneven number
Row1: Work 1 SC (single chain) in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Ch1, turn.
Row 2: Working through the front loop only, work 1 SC in 1st and each ch to end. Ch1, turn.
Repeat row 2 for pattern.

I used a combination of synthetic yarns and crochet cotton. Because of the different thicknesses of the yarns, I had to be careful to use the thin cottons in a sequence (every 4th row), to avoid the finished product being unevenly weighted.

Above: Every 4th row is cotton, to keep the weight as even as possible. Not all of the synthetic yarn is the same thickness, though. Note how thick the dirty pink is (left of the middle of the photo), compared to the orange next to it. Altogether, the texture is very interesting.

Above: By turning the blanket over after completing each row, there is no '"front" or "back" on the blanket. 

To finish, I used the same stitch to make a border of 6 rows. I debated putting tassles onto the blanket but decided to leave these off, because I didn't want Bean's little nose to be tickled by them. I'm hoping that this will become a real drag-around kind of blanket.

Hope you enjoy your blankie, Bean!

Succulent Bonsai Garden

My boyfriend gave me a bonsai for Christmas a few years ago. It was a good choice for a beginner bonsai keeper like myself, because it's a tough succulent that has a tenacious grip on life. It's called Crassula Sarcocaulis, though it's commonly known as Bonsai Crassula. If you're considering starting bonsai keeping, I'd recommend starting with Crassula.

Above: Crassula Sarcocaulis. Like all succulents, Crassula grows from cuttings. Each of those little branches could potentially be a future bonsai. 

I kept the succulent bonsai in its original dish for a year or so and then decided to give it a new home as part of a miniature garden. I began by taking the bonsai dish and placing it in a large planter dish (the bowl that catches the water below a pot plant). Then I filled the area around the bonsai pot with soil and added a few succulent cuttings. The result was a two-tiered garden, which you can see in the picture below. After about a year, I decided that I'd prefer the miniature garden to exist in only one dish, the larger planter dish.

Above: Equipment ready. Planter dish, plants, soil (under table), spray bottle and chopsticks (in my mouth. I'm still practicing the whole "being normal" malarky. Sometimes I forget...)

   

   

Above: Close-ups of some of the succulents and cactii for the miniature garden. I bought these from a couple at the Porter's Market in Tokai. They had a variety of interesting plants for sale at decent prices. Each plant has its own unique needs with regards to watering and fertilizing. Caring for a miniature garden is much the same as caring for a normal sized garden, except that everything is done on a much smaller scale.

I spent a while looking for inspiration online, but it seems that miniature gardens of this type are quite rare, so I fell back on the classic guideline of, "I'll put it where I want to."

I emptied out the planter dish and poured in a thin layer of fine gravel. I placed the uprooted bonsai into the dish and then filled the dish with potting soil, placing rocks around the base of the tree. I then tamped down the soil around the bonsai's roots pretty well. I didn't want any air channels to be caused by eroding soil, as the air would just dry out the roots.

After that, I started planting, using chopsticks to dig holes, place the cuttings into the holes and then cover the roots with soil. A lot of the cuttings were tiny, and the chopsticks gave me more control than fingers would. Eating utensils, gardening tools, same difference.

Above: The finished result. I placed rocks around the roots of the bonsai to support the soil and create a little "hill" for the tree to live in. I used moss to create a grass-like effect around the base of the bonsai.

 Above: About a year after planting, needing another trim. I've added a few plants, removed others and moved one or two to better spots.

 Above: I may have gone a bit OTT (Over The Top), my favorite method of doing anything. I love all the different colors in this one tiny pot. It really tickles my crazy bone.

Above: The miniature succulent bonsai garden looks spiffing on our porch table, and is a talking point for visitors.

Logically, moss and succulents shouldn't be able to thrive in the same container, because moss likes to be moist and cool, while succulents like to be dry and hot. But... life's too short for logic, so I did it anyway. I water mostly with a spray bottle, so I can control how much water each area gets. The different plants all thrive.
One of my favorite things about this bonsai tree is that it flowers almost all the way through summer with tiny, scented white blooms. The trunk is steadily becoming thicker, so over time it will eventually achieve a stumpy bonsai trunk.

Beautiful Antique Japanese Door

After seeing this door, I decided to share some pictures of it. The history of the door has been lost, sadly. All I know is that it is probably more than a century old, from Japan, and it was carved and painted by hand. 

Above: The double doors include barred windows, that allow light and air to circulate. The height of the doors contribute to the effect of grand elegance that the doors possess.

Above: The gold paint creates an interesting, attractive contrast to the brown paint used as a base coat on the door. This photo illustrates the aged look that is caused by the flaking paint.

Above: The hand carving is exquisite, with each part of the design perfect. A lot of care and concentration went into the crafting of this door.

Above: Bird and flower designs create organic curves that seem animated against the stiff, geometric shapes of the door.

This antique Japanese door has a lot of character, and draws a lot of attention. So it should, because the craftsmanship is exceptional, worthy of being admired on a daily basis. This is a beautiful example of art serving a functional purpose.

Hand Painted Ceramic Ashtray

A few years ago I worked for a ceramic arts shop. While learning the different painting techniques, I painted a ceramic ashtray for my sister, using a simple method that I thought I'd share.

Above: The design on the inside of the ashtray.

I chose to use three colors of paint; royal blue for the inside of the ashtray, lavender for the outside and turquoise for the rim. I applied three layers of paint, and allowed the painted ashtray to rest until almost dry.

Above: A close-up image of the design at the center of the ashtray.

Once the paint was dry to the touch, I took a sharp tool and began to score a pattern into the paint. The bisque became slightly soft from the moisture of the paint, and in places I was able "carve" a shallow pattern in to the bisque too.

Above: This photo shows the repetitive pattern scratched into the inside rim. The finished result has an ornate, lacy effect.

Above: The design on the outer face of the ashtray. The ceramic bisque had softened during the painting process, and so in places I was able to score the design into the ceramic itself.

It became more and more tricky to score the paint as it dried. I misted the ashtray with a spray bottle every so often to keep the paint supple. In some areas, you can see where the paint was dry and flaked away as I worked. 

Above: The contrast between the dark blue and the white is what gives this ashtray its appeal.

*Tips*

• This method takes a little bit of practice to get right, but luckily, if you don't like the result that you're getting, you can start over. Just dip the bisque in warm water and wipe gently with a cloth to clean the paint off. If you think you might need to use this method to start again, try to avoid scoring the bisque itself.
• Use dark colors for a more vivid contrast
• Keep your work area clean and free from dust. The damp paint is a magnet for floating debris.

Hand Embroidered Cotton Skirt

My cupboard is filled with light, airy cotton skirts and dresses. Though I love to wear these clothes, some of them are a bit plain, and so I've decided to give my wardrobe a makeover The following photos are of the first project, a blue cotton skirt, which I hand embroidered.

Above: For this cotton skirt's makeover, I decided to hand embroider the seam with a floral pattern. I chose soft, feminine colors to match the slightly pastel color of the material.

 Above: I used a chain stitch for the "tree" and a lazy daisy stitch for the little bunches of flowers. 

For the squiggles around the flowers, I used a back stitch. The back stitch is a bit stronger than a running stitch, which is perfect for people like me who can be a bit rough with clothing.

I added in a little butterfly to the left of the design for a tiny bit of contrast and to add interest to the piece.

Above: For the outlines of the butterfly wings, I used a backstitch. For the color inside the wings, I used a combination of a lazy daisy stitch and a single stitch. The lazy daisy stitch is essentially the same as a chain stitch, except that the loop is held in place by a tiny stitch at its end.

Above: The running stitch twirling vines were the most fun to sew. I spent hours embroidering these "squiggles" and enjoyed every minute of it.

Above: I figured out a way to avoid using knots in the embroidery. I would 'work in' the ends of the cotton by securing it to the back of the cloth with each stitch. This way, the embroidery contains no knots and the cotton ends are secure.

Above: This is what the running stitch looks like on the reverse side of the material. To secure the ends of the cotton after I'd finished my design, I ran the needle under several stitches to secure the thread and then cut the end. The cotton is both secure and hidden. This method works well to avoid having loose threads hanging off the back of the embroidery.

So there you have it, my beginner hand embroidery attempt. I found this craft to be very relaxing, if time-consuming. Because all of the equipment and supplies are quite small, I was able to take this sewing project with me on holiday in a small hand basket. It's a lovely way to keep the hands busy while relaxing.

*Beginner Hand Embroidery Tips* 

• Use an embroidery hoop. The material warps under the tension of the stitches without a hoop. I like a bamboo hoop, simply because it has more grip than a plastic hoop.
• I didn't use thimbles or embroidery gloves, and so ended up poking dozens of tiny holes in my fingertips. I suggest the use of protective gear.
• Embroidery cotton can be quite expensive. For beginner embroidery projects, try buying crochet cotton and dividing the threads. For the embroidery above, I used a local product from Vinni's yarns, which I had left over from a crochet project. 
• Use a sharp needle. The finished result is much neater if worked with a sharp needle than a design that has been punched into the cloth with a blunt needle.

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Photoshop Vector Experiments

Above: Click for a larger image of the vector characters

Above: This little guy could look cute on a kid's shirt. I like his googly eyes.

I just came across these, tucked away in a folder inside a folder that I'd forgotten about. This is what happens when I'm allowed to play with Photoshop's vector tools... None of these characters or designs have any serious purpose. I was just brushing up on my Photoshop skills and somehow went overboard and created a whole range of critters. *Sigh* I do get distracted so easily... 

The gecko's and frog's toes were the most fun to create, as were the repetitive patterns on the goldfish.

Above: Using Photoshop's vector tools, I traced this flower and made it 2-dimensional.

Above: Close-up of the vector-traced flower.

I think I might use this method to create designs for freehand machine embroidery. I suppose I could do it on paper, but I think it will be easier to play with color and size in a program like Photoshop. I think a bunch of flowers such as these, scattered along the hem of a skirt, could look lovely.

At the moment, though, I'm nowhere near this level of competence with a sewing machine. Practice maketh the master, so I'll have to start putting in some more sewing hours. I can't wait to be skilled enough to transfer images such as these onto my clothes.

A Handful of Character Designs

Here are some of my old character designs. I studied 3D animation in college, and worked in a traditional animation house as a clean-up artist. For about 4 years, I drew in every spare moment that I had. These are just a few characters that I've hung on to out of the hundreds of scribbles that I've thrown away.

Electrotoad, 2003

Lives in a pond of machine oil in an abandoned WW2 air hangar. Catches an airplane for lunch one day and is dragged off on a marvelous adventure in which he falls in love with a zeplin, and is nearly eaten by a "crane". 

 Penelope, 2003

The only child of a dragon Goddess and a phoenix. She can breathe fire, live in fire and turn into fire.

Trevor, 2004

This is what I felt like, trying to get my foot in the door of the animation industry - like the dorky little kid trying to play with the bog boys. Poor Trev. He tries so hard...

I'll try dig up a few more. It's kinda fun to discover these old characters.

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